L'Ulivo and Savoia

I have a soft spot for small, casual Italian restaurants with wood-burning ovens. If you share this fondness, I heartily recommend L'Ulivo Focacceria in SoHo. L'Ulivo's complementary basket of herb-sprinkled focaccia is so inviting that you may find yourself filling up fast before the meal even begins. If you can, try to save some room for the wonderful pizzas. Tonight, after a refreshing tricolor salad drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and Modena balsamic vinegar, I indulged in the focaccia tartufata. This incredibly satisfying pizza is layered with thinly-sliced fresh mozzarella, mushrooms and sheets of Parmesan. The thin, crisp crust is not a mere vehicle for the excellent toppings; it's so tasty that I could eat it plain. There are also many pasta options on the menu, including homemade lasagne and orecchiette in a spicy broccoli rabe puree. This evening, the charming waiter sensed my enthusiasm and brought over a free tiramisu. L'Ulivo is truly a place after my own heart!

When I visit Cobble Hill, I greatly enjoy Savoia. The host always has the confident, friendly demeanor of someone who knows that the customers are pleased. I most certainly am, especially when eating the soul-satisfying rigatoni alla Norma: a generous bowl of al dente pasta tubes and cubes of eggplant in a flavorful tomato sauce, topped with shredded salty ricotta. I also like to watch the chef at work on his "classic" and "new style" pizzas. For the traditionalist, there are four-cheese and marinara pies; for the more adventurous diner, there's a pear, walnut and Gorgonzola pizza!

L'Ulivo Focacceria: 184 Spring Street, (212) 343-1445. Savoia: 277 Smith St., Brooklyn, (718) 797-2727.